Izakaya Zero

Upscale Japanese Bar Food
	Reviewed By howie	Sep 28, 2007
Tags: izakaya

When I heard that Takashi Abe, the chef behind Bluefin, had opened an izakaya in Huntington Beach, I was very excited. Bluefin's perfectly executed, and beautifully-presented creations make for my favorite sushi experience in OC. Abe applies the same aesthetic to izakaya-style food, basically Japanese bar food in small tapas-sized portions. The results are simultaneously refined and homey.

We were a little worried when we first stepped inside. Not that the place didn't look nice, it does -- sleek, zen, and modern. It's that it was nearly empty (though it was a Monday night). But all concerns disappeared when they brought us our first plates.

We started with the okonomiyaki, a delicious, savory pancake with octopus topped with a BBQ sauce and bonito shavings. Next up were Fried Shishito Peppers. These peppers have a mellow heat with a nice smoky finish.

The next two dishes were my favorites, Deep-Fried Soft-Shell Crab and Cod with Foie Gras. The crab were lightly battered and fried, and served with a sweet, light, chili sauce. I've never had such a perfectly light piece of crab before. As expected, the Cod with Foie Gras was decadent -- the buttery fish melding with the rich duck liver tempered by a soy-mirin sauce. Heavenly.

The menu features several fusion dishes. We tried an Italian-influenced miniature rack of lamb with a tomato puree and basil. It was a perfect medium rare, and the tomato made a nice counterpoint to the lamb.

For those curious about how it compares to Honda Ya, another excellent izakaya in OC, I would say that most of the dishes that I had at Izakaya Zero were more artfully presented and sharply executed than comparable dishes at Honda Ya. Of course, that comes with a heftier price tag. Honda Ya's big advantage is that it has much bigger variety, and it's homier. Hopefully, Izakaya Zero will find its audience soon; it's beautiful, delicious food certainly deserves it.